42 Degrees - Business from a different angle

It is vitally important that senior business people project an air of competence and confidence. But it's surprising how many CEOs and business people I meet wearing cheap shirts. Men are the worst but by no means the only offenders. They think it doesn't show. But it is immediately noticeable even to people who aren't interested in appearances. That's why men should never pay less than £40 full price for a business shirt. A cheap shirt screams 'lack of attention to detail' and indicates a sloppy operation.

It's not as if there's any excuse for being cheap because even if the price bothers you, you can always pick them up for half price in the Summer and Winter sales.

But it's no good just having a couple of 'party shirts' for best. You need to make a good impression all of the time, not just sometimes. So you will need about fifteen shirts to have a sufficient choice for every likely occasion and allow you to change shirts during the course of the day.

It's all about seeing yourself as a brand which is related to but runs much deeper than simple image. It is about accentuating what is distinctive or remarkable about you. To make a real contribution to 'brand you', your clothes have to be an authentic and integral reflection of your personality. Ideally your clothes should also reflect the personality of your business. If there is an irreconcilable difference between the two, then you may be in the wrong job.

Probably the most important dimension for any business shirt is quality. You can usually tell by the thickness and tightness of the fabric. Do not be tempted by polyester mixes, they always look cheap. Another important quality indicator is whether the yolk is sewn in two pieces – it allows the shirt to move better.

In design terms, collars are the most noticeable feature because they are in what I call 'the communication zone'. So they should always be immaculate. If you have a wide neck, never have a wide collar – it makes your neck disappear. Curled collars look awful so they should either be starched or you should use stays to keep them smart.

When it comes to colour, remember that the typical Anglo-Celtic complexion looks washed out against plain white. Pale blues, lilacs or other light colours are what is needed. But whatever colour you wear make sure the shirt has double cuffs. Again it's a mark of quality, but it also allows you to wear cufflinks through which you can express your true self.

Another tricky area is that of informal business wear. Increasingly business people have to be able to show they can relax. But you don't want to look like you've just come off the beach. On the other hand simply removing your tie doesn't quite do it. I suggest that you need a patterned shirt for those occasions – not too loud, but again something that reflects the inner you.

Of course the whole effect can be ruined if the shirt isn't ironed properly. So I recommend dry cleaning if at all possible – it also keeps the fabric in better condition. But Austin Reed has just produced a range of pure cotton Performance shirts that don't need ironing.

It doesn't take much in terms of time or money to look the part these days. So give it a go. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results.

Lesley Everett's 10 steps to shirt heaven

•   1Never pay less than £40 for a shirt, (£25 if you buy in the sales)
•   2Buy quality fabrics – thick with a tight weave and no polyester
•   3Look for double cuffs
•   4Express your individuality through choice of tie and cuff links
•   5Buy the right collar for your build
•   6Keep collars smart with starch and stays
•   7A split yoke is a good indicator of quality
•   8Have sufficient shirts for every type of business occasion
•   9Dry cleaning keeps them looking better longer
• 10Beware of white but don't be afraid of patterns.