Part 2 : The sixteen markers of a good suit

A good suit is arguably one of your most powerful tools in business. But what exactly is a good suit? And how do you judge one?

  1. There are three basic grades of quality in tailoring – off the peg, made to measure and bespoke.
  2. Fabric is important but quality lies in the measurement, fit and construction.
  3. The main marker of a better suit is the use of a canvas interlining between the lining and the fabric. It reinforces the fabric, and helps create and retain the shape.
  4. Fabrics must be natural, probably wool and probably 'worsted.' It may even be blended with other natural fibres such as silk, linen or cashmere.
  5. Gradings of fabric – 'Super 150', 'Super 180' etc, refer to the fineness of the yarn. Finer yarns are more expensive but paradoxically they are not necessarily more sturdy and resilient.
  6. For business suits you should stick to a very limited palette – blue, grey and perhaps black.
  7. You need to be both young and slim to wear some of the modern, narrower cuts. I recommend single breasted, two or three button jackets.
  8. Jackets should sit square on the shoulders, be a good fit at the neck point (the point where the shoulder of the jacket touches your collar) and the chest where the chest line meets armhole.
  9. Vents are designed to give the jacket mobility and to cover your rear. Larger men should have two vents, a slimmer figure can get away with one. No one can get away with none.
  10. Trousers should be lined to the knee. One or two pleats are good at disguising the less athletic figure.
  11. Don't fall into the trap of wearing trousers too tight or too high in the changing room.
  12. Turn-ups often look better on men with long legs.
  13. Sleeves should have four buttons, jacket pockets should have flaps, and hand stitching around the fronts, lapels and collars of the jackets should be nearly invisible.
  14. A suit should always rest for at least a day after wearing, to let it regain its shape and for creases to drop out. So you'll need three or four.
  15. Don't dry clean them too often. It'll make the suit look tired.
  16. Remember even the best suit needs help. So don't scrimp on your choice of shirt, tie and cufflinks.

GURU PART 1: Suits you, sir.
If you are what you wear, a smart suit is essential for creating a favourable first impression. Bespoke tailor Derek Vawdrey explores the sartorial minefield of dressing for success. Read Guru part 1

Part 1 : Suits you, sir.

If you are what you wear, a smart suit is essential for creating a favourable first impression. Bespoke tailor Derek Vawdrey explores the sartorial minefield of dressing for success.
Read Guru part 1

 

GURU

Be our guru and make your marque. Share some of your hard-earned business wisdom and you could
win a Mont Blanc Meisterstück Classique rollerball.

Last Issue's Winner

Helen Moss, PR executive at Derby-based software company Common Time, is the the lucky recipient of a Montblanc Meisterstuck Classique roller ball for her winning entry in our last Guru competition.
Helen points out that it is important to maintain a good image and project success in business.
It inspires confidence in clients. But you also have to strike a balance.
"Flash cars, expensive giveaway gifts don’t impress anyone they just make the customer think they are paying to much for your services/ goods," she says. You need to find more subtle and relevant ways to make your point.